The road to Doima, at best unpaved and bumpy, is today crossed by rivers in flood. The rivers have sub­merged the low concrete bridges and at the second bridge the river is so high the bus has to stop and wait for the waters to subside. The rainstorm that caused the flood gradually dies and so the river begins to sink again. It leaves behind a large branch blocking the bridge. A truck comes forward to haul it out of the way and is then the first to cross the rushing waters. Cheers go up as it reaches the other side safely and everyone piles back into the bus. Once across that river there is another river in flood to cross – we carry across a motorbike and driver in the doorway of the bus – and so finally we reach Doima, a small town of a dozen streets in the Tolima Department of Colombia.

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